lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
What's today, Tuesday? September? Already? Thank god...

Quick recap: Sunday morning was spent sitting in the tiny but delightful green-park outside the Musee de Beaux Arts, reading a research book I've been prowling through all week, then H and I went to Ch. du Clos de Vougeot (home of the Confrerie des Chavaliers du Tastevin) were I got a hands-on personal tour of the chateau and surrounding area that was fabulous (photos tk via Flickr photodump), and then dinner at H's place (a flat in an 18th century building in the heart of Dijon), where I browsed her magnificent library and discussion of many topics was made over port and wine brought up from her actual cellar (we used a candle to go down to fetch the wine because the battery on her flashlight had died -- talk about atmosphere!) Made it home a little after 1 a.m, and had to catch an early morning train back to Paris. Ow.

Paris was as I left it -- overcast and drizzling this time instead of downpour. Still Paris. Wish I had more time there but since I still owe FF et J a trip to Lille I suspect I'll be back again before too long... (and hopefully the dollar will be stronger!)

Random personal (non-research-y) thoughts.

France really is a lot like the US, in ways good and bad. I feel invited and at home there, even with my merde language skills, while the UK, despite a mostly-shared language, always feels foreign and oddly closed-off (and I am convinced that Paris is soul-sister to NYC). Jefferson and Franklin may have been on to something...

I really, really want a moto-scooter now. Scooters are le coolth. Someone talk me out of it (or, if you're [livejournal.com profile] otterdance, into it).

There is no such thing as too much wine. Just not enough bread and too little sleep.

An admiring second look from a Frenchman really can make you feel ten years younger and 100% prettier (also: alas, my taste in men seems consistent. Sorry, 20-something prettybois).

Every time I go abroad, I bring home something tucked inside that changes my life. Not sure what it will be this time, but I can feel it taking root and making room....

Scarfs may be a required fashion, but I don't like having something wrapped around my neck.

Not many Asians touristing in France. I guess they're all busy in North America.

Canadians really do apologize for everything. Stop it!

Cats are cats everywhere.

It's going to take me at least a week to stop saying d'accord. Like "va bene," it's been seared into my conversational reflex.

If you eat high-fat foods, and drink a lot of wine, and spend at least half the day on your feet, you will lose weight. My upper body is clamoring to get back to the gym, though.

The staff at CDG was surprisingly sweet. Do they not know they work at an airport?

Although it will take me a little while to adjust to the rhythm and sounds of the city, as always, je suis une New Yorker. It's good to be home.


And, on that note, I have stuff to unpack and put away, and deadlines to hammer into the wall....
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
Commentary on the trip: the ter-snc (rapide train) site is my most-commonly used link this week. Yes, even more than e-mail or LJ. I had been worried about spending two weeks sans car, but it's turned out pretty well using the train, velio (bike) and the ole' foot traffic. Are there places I might have visited if I'd had independent transportation that I didn't get to? Mai oui. Did it make my trip less enjoyable/interesting/informative? Non.

Friday August 29 )

Saturday, August 30 )

Tomorrow I say farewell to Burgundy with one last day of research, and then back to Paris, and from there, home. Part of me wants to stay but...I'm ready, oui. There is much writing to be done.
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
OMFG am I tired. Dead tired. But my mom has apparently started to panic, so am reporting in. Yes, this journal really is nothing more or less than a way to reassure my mom that I'm still alive. Now the truth is known. ;-)

Wednesday August 27 )

Thursday August 28 )

In not-really-related news:

1. I will be appearing at University Bookstore in Seattle 7pm October 29th. Mark the date now!

2. Early word from madame Editrix is that HARD MAGIC has been read and approved. *whews*

3. Still no word on the good news I can't talk about yet. *looks meaningfully at the people who need to dot tees and cross eyes at some point...*

I've been awake for almost 17 hours now. Falling over...
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
It's rare that you are given a perfect day. It's even more rare that you are aware in that moment that it is indeed a perfect day. Not in the terms of fireworks and big magic, but simply the universe giving you an endless fountain of small gifts.

That was Tuesday, when I took the train to Beaune and found myself wandering unplanned from one marvelous encounter to the next. From the woman in the information center at the Gare Dijon who was so wonderfully helpful (and got to hear me say, in near-perfect French, "I missed the damn train by that much!") to the lovely Scott family from Dover, MA who invited me to join them for lunch, to Stephanie Bouhin at La P'tite Cave and Henri Emmanuel at Cave du Cabet des Cordeliers, who gave me the respect of a fellow wine professional, to the Italian couple at the Marche aux Vins who mocked the British foursome near us until I was close to spilling my wine with laughter (alas, the foursome deserved it. Some people should not be let out of their home towns, much less their native countries). My only regret was not staying longer, but I was very tired, and Beaune will still be there at the end of the week, if I decide to return.

And yes, it being Beaune, I not only visited the Musee de Vin, but tasted as well. wine neepery behind the cut for those who are uninterested in such things )

And then I came home, used the washing machine [but not the dryer because Life's Too Short], made myself a reasonably healthy dinner, put my feet up and dug into three days' worth of notes, pressing it into comprehensive chunks of world-building and character development. My head, it hurts....

Oh, and a thing that amuses me: the coffee pot has two different sets of marking on the side; one set for how much water to use for large mugs, and the other for how much water to use for normal-sized mugs. Brilliant!

And thanks to the Internet I've been able to catch some of the Democratic Convention highlights, which is about all I'd be able to stand if I were home, too. Had to explain to someone this week that no, actually, Biden's a pretty popular Veep pick, and why. The 'news' over here seems to be that he's universally hated, which made me laugh -- and opened a discussion about how very little we ever actually lean about each other, if we rely on the media or Party-Approved Doctrine. ("all it takes for senseless hatred to end is to learn to know your neighbor...so you can hate him/her for a specific reason!")

Oh, and here's a photo for Terri...
no matter where you go, there you are... )
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
Okay, none of you even blinked at me being menaced by a goose. I'm really not sure what to make of that... Anyway. Getting this done while I have time.
-----------
Sunday 24 August et Monday 25 August )
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
Anyone know the French for "Madame, there is a goose on your table?"
*stares at goose, who stares back. Goose wins. Person backs off*

I'm SO having foie gras tonight....
----------------

As per the will of the hoi-poll-y, herein are some notes, broken down into hopefully manageable day-bites. If you enjoy,feel free to leave a few coins in the begging-bowl...

Saturday, 23 August )
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
Imagine walking back to your car after a long, fascinating, tiring day, through a slight summer rainstorm, then looking up and seeing this arching all the way overhead....

(sorry for the triptych -- no other way to work it)


My camera totally did not do it justice.


and proof that I'm not entirely cut off from American politics here (it only feels like it): A Plea To That Guy at the Podium. Yo. What s/he said.
lauraanne_gilman: (citron presse)
I am in Dijon. Apartment is sweet, Dijon is rainy but charming (what I've seen of it,already) and as usual I am already having Adventures (including proof that speaking a French-English-Italian pidgin can sometimes be useful thing).

Updates at some point. For now, I am off to find dinner and plot tomorrow's schedule.

Talk amongst yourselves, my children. Also,I'm not going to be reading the f-list so either say it here or send me an e-mail...

October 2024

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